It seems that this Tour was destined to be problematic. In September 2008, the ferry service from Newcastle to Stavanger and Bergen was discontinued forcing a reroute via Denmark. Then the planned ferry service from Hanstholm (Denmark) to Kristiansand was discontinued, leaving an inconvenient dash across Denmark from Esbjerg to Hirsthals to catch a late ferry to Kristiansand. As one by one people dropped out, it seemed like the tour was doomed – just Norway veterans Derek and Sheila remained.
Then in February 2009 came the terrible news that David Adams had passed away. David originated the Tours way back in 1991 and he would definitely be missed. Derek, Sheila and I decided on another reroute. We would cross from Frederikshavn (Denmark) to Göteborg (Sweden), which would allow us to visit David's widow Betzy as we headed north into Norway.
So, we set off on the third major revision of the route. But it would not be the last diversion ...
| Date | Itinerary |
| 06 June 2009 | Travel to Harwich |
| 07 June 2009 | Esbjerg to Frederikshavn |
| 08 June 2009 | Frederikshavn to Råde |
| 09 June 2009 | Råde to Dagali |
| 10 June 2009 | Dagali to Mysuseter |
| 11 June 2009 | Mysuseter |
| 12 June 2009 | Mysuseter to Geiranger |
| 13 June 2009 | Geiranger to Sogndal |
| 14 June 2009 | Sogndal |
| 15 June 2009 | Sogndal |
| 16 June 2009 | Sogndal to Eidfjord |
| 17 June 2009 | Eidfjord to Rjukan |
| 18 June 2009 | Rjukan to Tornby (DK) |
| 19 June 2009 | Tornby to Esbjerg |
| 20 June 2009 | Travel home from Harwich |
To see enlarged versions of the images in this report, click on the thumbnails (opens in a new window). A full set of pictures can be found in the gallery.
An uneventful run to Harwich, starting in the rain. However, it brightened up part way and allowed the top to come down. Arriving in Harwich, we were soon outnumbered by MGs heading to Geiranger for a European get-together.
A calm sea and an assault on the buffet led to a good night's sleep.
After a stroll on deck and a good breakfast, we retired to the lounge for a route discussion. Our route will mostly avoid the motorways, instead cutting NE through Grinsted and Viborg before heading east to the coast at Als. Then north along the coast, with a short ferry across the estuary at Hals, to our final destination in Frederikshavn,
The ferry arrived on schedule and we were soon on our way with tops down on a cool but sunny day. Ignoring the SatNav's exhortations to turn where there wasn't even a road (obsolete maps), we found our way without too many mishaps. It was a pleasant drive through rolling farmland until we reached the east coast. The sea remained tantalising out of reach, with glimpses through the trees and across marshland. Nowhere could we find a stopping place with a beach. I guess all those locations had been taken by holiday cabins and houses.
Another sunny day started with the ferry from Frederikhavn to Göteborg (Sweden), a smooth high-speed service. The E6 led us north from Göteborg at a fair pace. This road has been much improved over the years and is dual carriageway or motorway much of the way.
Finally, after an unexpected toll to cross the bridge, we set tyre on Norwegian tarmac for the first time. Before long we were enjoying a warm welcome from Betzy, with barbecue and chatting late into the night. Naturally, we were missing David, but we raised a glass to his memory.
Another sunny morning, and our convoy has now grown to include a StreetKa, as Betzy joins the Tour for a few days with her daughter Marne. Approaching the ferry at Moss, Betzy peels off to the station to pick up Marne, shortly reappearing behind us in the queue for the Horten ferry.
Leaving Horten, a short spell on the E18 brings us to the RV32 which leads us to Hvittingfoss. Here we pick up RV40 for the rest of the day. Passing through Kongsberg, the cars are replenished with Shell's finest, and the drivers are replenished with bacon-wrapped cheese-filled sausages (ostpølse - yummy).
Back on the road, we follow RV40 as it winds along Numedal, frequently swapping sides with the river and the railway as they jostle for space in the valley.
At last we start climbing into the mountains, with a hairpin ascent from Rødberg to the summit at 1100m above sea level, before dropping down again to reach our hotel at Dagali. By this stage, the sun has disappeared and it has become rather chilly. The spacious, comfortable rooms are most welcome, with their views over the rushing river to the Hardangervidda plateau beyond.
What a difference a day makes. The day starts cold (8ºC) and damp, with low cloud caressing the top of the Hardangervidda. Our journey continues north on RV40 as it undulates its way to Geilo. Here we turn east for the steady run along RV7 to Gol. Although not bad, the weather is unable to decide what to do, alternating short showers with sunny spells.
Leaving RV7 at Gol, we wind our way up a series of hairpin bends on the RV51 towards Fagernes, passing through communities of holiday cabins and ski lodges, Eventually, what goes up must come down, and we descend into Leira, briefly joining the E16 for the final mile or so into Fagernes. The winter has been unkind to these roads, with numerous ridges, eruptions and areas of broken surface.
After a short break to refuel (cars and people), we leave the E16 as RV51 starts to climb once more. Passing through the ski resort of Beitostølen, the ski lifts are silent and maintenance work progresses on the hotels in the hiatus between the winter skiing and summer hiking seasons. There is still some lying snow as we reach the summit of the pass (1166m above sea level).
At Lake Byggdin, the water level is now lower and the beached steamer looks out of place. Here we turn off RV51 onto the Jotunheim Way (Jotunheimvegen), an unsurfaced toll road which leads towards Vinstra. As this road works its way east across the plateau, we are rewarded with the desolate beauty that Norway does so well. The distant mountains are almost black and white, with the residual snow contrasting with the dark rock.
Rejoining the tarmac at Skåbu, the road winds around the hills, clinging to the rock face as it descends to towards Vinstra. It's not very often that you see a sign warning about the headroom to the overhanging rock!
Joining the E6 at Vinstra, it is a steady run north on the E6. Shortly before Otta, we leave the E6 and start our climb up the hill towards the Rondane National park and our hotel at Mysuseter. The mountains are resplendent in the late afternoon sunshine, with cloud just kissing the highest peaks. A swim and a sauna helps work up an appetite for dinner, followed by a relaxing evening in the comfortable lounge.
Today is a rest day (for the cars at least) and the weather initially looked promising for an assault on Peer Gynt Hytta, a 20km walk across the fells. Things were not going to go to plan …
Just as I was preparing to leave, and about to say goodbye to Betzy and Marne (who had to leave us this morning), we got the message that Aage and Nina were 30 minutes away. They are joining the Tour for the next few days, so it would be rude to set off without seeing them first. And it started to rain heavily, although it was just one of many showers.
Aage and Nina duly arrived in their MGB and we spent the rest of the morning chatting until Betzy and Marne had to go. After a quick coffee, it was on to Plan B – drive to Spranget at the edge of the Rondane National Park, with a walk from there.
Paying our toll at the new coin-operated boom, we got half way to Spranget before the road was closed “to protect the National Park”. So, we had to park up there (no car park, of course) and walk the last 1km to the Park boundary and the large, empty (of course) car park. Whilst the others turned back, Aage and I carried on to the small gorge where the river rushes over the rock slabs and through narrow gaps. The crystal-clear water is doubtless rather cold and there are numerous potholes in the rock where swirling water and pebbles have ground away over the years. This is a huge contrast to the last time I was there (2007 Tour), when I had spent some time lying in the sun on the hot rock slabs at the water's edge.
Having had enough fresh air and exercise, we returned to the cars and back to the hotel for a leisurely swim.
Although the skies are somewhat threatening, it looks brighter to the west and the hoods go down. Descending from Mysuseter, the first stop is Otta where Nina wants to buy some of the local cheese which is made with caramelised milk.
Continuing north on E6, we wind along the valley until we reach Dombås. Here we leave the E6 and turn west on the E136 towards Åndalsnes.
Eventually, the valleys start to narrow and the steep rock faces close in on us until we are passing the ever-impressive Troll Wall. This imposing sheer drop was beloved of base-jumpers until the authorities banned it after spending too much time scraping up the bits. An increasing number of MGs show that we are heading towards Geiranger.
Turning south on RV63 brings us to the magnificent hairpin climb at Trollstigen (Troll Steps). After a few initial turns on the east side, the road rounds the head of the valley, crossing the precariously balanced stone bridge by the waterfall. The climb completes on the west side, finally reaching the summit.
After a welcome bite of lunch and a visit to the new overhanging observation platforms, we continue along the plateau, climbing more gently to the top of the pass. Then it is downhill all the way. Pausing at Gudbrandsjuvet, where the river thunders through a narrow rock gorge, we admire the architectural steelwork that has been added. This allows visitors to get a good view of the falls, including grates in the floor and glass-walled parapets – a challenge for anyone with a dislike of heights!
Continuing downwards through wooded valleys, we descend back to sea level at Sylte and turn along the fjord to the ferry at Linge. Here there is a short delay due to high volumes of traffic (MGs), despite the MG event having arranged an additional ferry operating on the crossing today.
At last we reach Grande, waving a temporary goodbye to Aage and Nina as they head into town to find their hotel, before returning to join us for dinner later.
Looks like we picked the wrong weekend to visit Geiranger! There are some 250 cars based at the Union Hotel for the MG Car Club's European event. There is also a half-marathon today and a cycle race (both heading for Dalsnibba) which will close the road. And to top it all, it is raining.
Although the plan was to take the sight-seeing boat along the fjord, it looks like this will have to be abandoned so that we can leave Geiranger before the road closes. This is confirmed when the ticket office indicates that tickets are not available until 1700 – presumably full of MG drivers until then. So, a little retail therapy is called for and the souvenir shops duly raided. We also pause to “admire” a Ferguson TE20 tractor outside one of the shops. The fashion designers' logo is a golden tractor and this Fergie is not grey but finished in gold flake metallic. Oh Cousin, what have they done to you?
The rain has eased off as we leave Geiranger, climbing up the hill and negotiating The Knot (Knuten) on the old road. As we get higher, we run into low cloud and reduced visibility, making the hairpin bends even more interesting. Although the cloud begins to clear before Djupvassshytta and allows some sun through, it is clearly not worth the trip up to Dalsnibba (a further climb of 500m). Even if the visibility is OK at the top, Geiranger (the main view) would be obscured. And there is the chaos of the runners and cyclists to consider – we will definitely give Dalsnibba a miss this time.
Continuing alongside the mostly-frozen lake, we come to RV15. Here we turn away from our main direction and descend from the mountain through two long tunnels. What goes down must come up, and at the bottom of the descent we turn back on ourselves and start climbing on the old road (Gamle Strynvegen). This winds back up the mountain, passing the summer ski centre (hint: there is a lot of snow here) before crossing the fell amid spectacular scenery.
Finally we rejoin RV15 at Grotli for the descent to Lom. Although this is one of the driest areas of Norway, it doesn't stop the melt-water from thundering down the river and over waterfalls such as the one at Pollfoss.
Ignoring the wooden church (stavkirke) at Lom (which we have seen many times before), we stock up on supplies as we are self-catering for the next few days. Then once more we climb into the snowy mountains on RV55 as we pass Galdhøpiggen (Norway's highest peak at 2469m) before crossing the Sognefjell at over 1400m above sea level.
At last we are back at sea level, running alongside Lustrafjord towards Sogndal. Our progress is briefly halted as the police have temporarily closed the road – a youngster on an ATV has tragically had a fatal disagreement with a car.
From Sogndal, it is just a short run along RV5 towards Kaupanger, where we have a cabin for the next few nights. Before long, the barbeque is alight, the salad prepared, and a convivial evening is had by all.
Sadly, Aage and Nina have to leave us to return home, but we will accompany them at the start of their journey. We begin with a short run along RV5 to the ferry at Mannheller, then cross to Fodnes and on to join the E16. Continuing east as the road winds through valleys and short tunnels, we finally reach the point where RV52 branches off to the south. Here our ways must part, and we bid farewell to Aage and Nina as they head off towards Oslo.
The two remaining cars stay on the E16 as it narrows and climbs up onto the fells. At Tyinkrysset we leave the E16, taking RV53 alongside Lake Tyin and down the steep descent into Årdal with its aluminium plant.
A short run alongside the lake brings us to Årdalstangen, from where a ferry used to run along the fjord to Kaupanger. The 1992 Tour took this ferry, but it has now been replaced by a new road back to the ferry at Fodnes. After the short crossing, we return to the cabin with plenty of time for a swim and relaxation before dinner.
Taking advantage of the broadband internet connection in the cabin, we get the serious news that our ferry from Krisitiansand to Hirsthals has been cancelled. After a checking the maps and considering the options, our best bet is to rebook onto the Larvik to Hirsthals crossing – slightly longer and slightly later – but minimum disruption to our plans. We will have to plot a new route for our final day in Norway, but first we need to talk to Colorline Customer Services when they open in the morning.
A prompt start takes us to Kaupanger and onto the ferry for the long trip to Gudvangen. After a request stop at Frønningen (disembarking a tractor into the isolated roads at the end of the headland), the ferry turns south off the Sognefjord and eventually turns into Nærøyfjord. This fjord branch is a UNESCO World Heritage site and is incredibly narrow in places. The ferry captain successfully negotiates the shallows and brings us to Gudvangen (shopping and ice-cream).
Leaving Gudvangen behind, we head west on the E16 to Vinjo where we turn north onto RV13. After running up the green valley, the road is forced to climb spectacularly up onto the Vikafjell, via a series of hairpin bends and alongside a thundering waterfall. After crossing the fell and passing through the summit tunnel, the road begins its long winding descent into Vikøyri and then along the fjordside to Vangnes.
A short ferry crossing brings us to Hella, from where RV55 follows the north side of the Sognefjord east to Sogndal. The short section of RV5 brings us back to the cabin and completes the loop.
There is good news on the ferry front as well. Having tried to phone several times during the day, we are finally able to talk to Colorline Customer Services and are duly rebooked onto the Larvik to Hirsthals crossing. We are lucky that we were able to pick up the email notification – it would have been difficult if we had turned up in Kristiansand to find there was no sailing.
Once more we take RV5 to Mannheller, crossing the fjord to Fodnes and on to Lærdal. Here we leave RV5, taking the Snow Road to Aurlandsvangen. This old road, now bypassed by a 25km tunnel, clings to the hillside as it climbs up the valley and over the fells. At the upper levels, the ground is covered by snow and there is ice on the lakes as the road winds through the rocky scenery.
The Snow Road eventually descends a series of hairpin bends and into Aurlandsvangen. Rejoining the E16, it is a short run to Flåm. Although we are not taking a trip on the mountain railway (Flåmsbana) this year, it is a good spot for a break. There is a cruise ship docked at the quay and plenty of coaches in the car park, so it is no surprise to find the place very busy.
Returning to the E16, two tunnels (5km and 12km) bring us back to Gudvangen, where a quick stop is needed for Sheila to purchase a handbag spotted yesterday. Then once more on the E16 to Vinjo, but this time turning south to Voss.
Passing through Voss, we take the RV13 towards Granvin. Rather than taking another long tunnel to the ferry at Bruravik, we take the scenic route using RV572 through Espeland and Ulvik. Then it is onto the ferry for the crossing to Brimnes and a short run east on RV7 to the hotel at Eidfjord.
Breaking with tradition, today we are heading east from Eidfjord, rather than south. We start by taking RV7 up through a series of bends and tunnels to the edge of the Hardangervidda plateau at Vøringfoss. Here we pause to admire the waterfalls, spectacular in the sunshine and with the spray generating rainbows.
Then onwards and upwards, continuing our climb over the top to Geilo. Turning south on RV40, we retrace our earlier steps from a week earlier, albeit with better weather, until reaching Bjørkeflåta. Here we turn once again into the mountains, climbing to Imingfjell and beyond. After a short run across the fells, we begin the descent through the wooded valley of Tessungdalen to Austbygdi.
Turning west on RV364, we skirt around the head of Tinnsjø, the long narrow lake that is best known for the wartime sinking of a passenger ferry with its cargo of heavy water. We then turn away from the lake, heading up the valley on RV37 through Rjukan.
Climbing out of Rjukan, we divert to the old power station at Vemork. This now hosts a museum covering both its industrial past and its production of heavy water for the wartime Nazi nuclear weapons programme. The sabotage of this plant (and the associated sinking of the ferry) is the basis of the film The Heroes of Telemark and is detailed by individual accounts and artefacts in the museum.
When the Tour first visited the museum in 1992, we crossed the narrow suspension bridge over the gorge and drove up to the museum building. Now the car park is before the bridge and the steep climb up to the museum is undertaken on foot. However, it is worth the effort and we stay there until we are thrown out at closing time. Returning to RV37, we continue the climb on the summit and our hotel at Skinnarbu.
This morning it is raining steadily – what a way to start the last day in Norway. As we cross the mountains towards Åmot,remaining on RV37, the journey becomes a wildlife safari. First an elk lopes across the road and not long after a grouse scurries across. The weather is also improving as we head south, so good news all round and we can get the tops down.
As we are heading to Larvik (not Kristiansand) for the ferry, we have planned a new route in search of the Telemark Canal. This runs from Dalen to Skien through a series of lakes linked by short sections of canal where locks are needed. So, we cross the E136 at Åmot and continue on RV38 to Dalen. Here we find our first signpost to the canal, and after a lot of hunting around we find the quay which marks the end of the navigation.
We cannot follow the canal along this lake and have to climb over a ridge to Krossli. Still on RV38, our route continues parallel to the canal (albeit alongside the wrong lake) through Vrådal to Eidstod. A short section heading north on RV41 brings us back to the canal line, and we turn along the south side of Kviteseidvatnet to Fjågesund and then cross to the north side for the run alongside Fjåvatn.
Pausing briefly at Kjelddal to admire the lock, we then head through Lunde to Ulefoss on RV359. Here we find a picnic spot next to a deep set of staircase locks. Entertainment is provided by the bypass sluice periodically closing, presumably controlled according to the needs of the adjacent power plant.
As time is pressing, we abandon any further search for the canal. Turning south on RV36, we negotiate the traffic of Skien and Porsgrunn before joining the E18 for the run into Larvik. Despite several traffic jams, we finally get to the ferry terminal and check in (phew – no problems with our Kristiansand-based documents). Unsurprisingly, a lot of vehicles are waiting, but the ferry is large enough to cope and before long we are on the 3+ hour journey to Denmark.
Arriving in Hirsthals, we pass through the Danish border authorities with the minimum of fuss. A short run along Rt55 brings us to Tornby and our hotel, with just time for a night-cap before bed.
Under heavy skies, I took a short walk before breakfast. The beach is supposedly 0.5km from the hotel, but obviously this is not along the road. Just as I was 0.5 miles along the road, and could see the beach in the distance, the heavens opened as a thunderstorm began. Drenched before breakfast – not a good start.
Thankfully the rain is clearing as we set off for Esbjerg. The plan is to head down the west coast and after a short spell of motorway and main road we get to Thisted. We have been passing through rolling farmland, but the main crop seems to be wind turbines! They are everywhere – in big windfarms, little clusters and even single ones in the middle of a field.
From Thisted, we continue out to the coast and take Rt181 south. This road runs through the dunes, now grassed over and long deserted by the sea. With a mixture of grazing land and wetlands, it is a tranquil drive until we reach the end of the sandbar and a short ferry across the mouth of Nissum Bredning.
The route continues in a similar way, passing a number of old thatched farmhouses which are now historic exhibits. A short stop for coffee and pastries (well, it would be rude not to) ends in panic as another sharp shower catches us stationary with the roof down.
Finally, Rt181 turns away from the sea (which we haven't seen much) and heads inland to Varde. Here we join Rt11 and Rt12 for the short run into Esbjerg. Not surprisingly, there are several MGs at the quayside and we pass the time chatting about their event in Geiranger until is it time for boarding and an attack on the buffet.
Harwich comes into sight and we dock on schedule. The skies are overcast, but promising enough for the hoods to go down as the ship starts to unload. We are among the last handful of vehicles to clear customs, before we hit the road and head for home.
After an uneventful run along the A120, M11, A14 and M6, we finally part ways as Derek and Sheila peel off onto the M54. A further hour on the road and then the Norway Tour 2009 is over. All that remains is to unpack the car, load the washing machine, etc., and return to normal life.
Fifteen days (including ferries), with no major mechanical issues – the worst problem being a broken speedo cable. The hoods were down at some point on every day (except the rest day in Mysuseter, when we only covered a couple of miles anyway). Although wet at times, no day was a complete washout and most were blessed by good conditions.
As a result of the broken speedo cable, the exact distance is unknown. However, it was certainly in excess of 2000 miles.
Fuel consumption was approximately 415 litres. The Norwegian prices (for a litre of 98/99 octane unleaded) ranged from 12.48NOK to 13.70NOK (average 13.24NOK). Obviously, 95 octane unleaded was a bit cheaper.